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RESTAURANT RANTS & RAVES
BoneFish Grill: A Night of Scrumptious Seafood By Suzy Schurr NFCA Volunteer Saturday evening is typically the big “eat out” night for people in the Philadelphia area, so I was quite surprised when I called Bonefish Grill on a recent Sunday afternoon and the only available time slot for dinner was 4:45p.m. Because of their extensive gluten-free menu, I pleaded with my husband and kids not to complain about the really early dinner, even though they had just finished lunch and to trust me that the early meal would consist of really delicious food. They agreed to accompany me only after I reminded them how many of the past Sunday evenings I have spent at their favorite rib joint! The four of us were seated promptly at 4:45, at a very spacious booth. Within 30 minutes of our arrival, the place was hopping. The tables were filled with parents and their kids, seniors dining with other seniors, and every age group in between. The 20-something crowd sat mostly at high top tables near the bar—the bar serves a decent selection of wines and spirits, and is smoke-free. As we scanned the menu, mine gluten-free, I realized that a lot of the choices on the regular menu were also on my menu. This was a good sign. Karen, our friendly waitress arrived, told us of some dinner specials, and took our drink order while we continued to make our selection. When she arrived back, she was carrying a small saucer with a dollop of some mysterious concoction on it. She proceeded to mix the olive oil from our table with it and told us to dip our bread in it. This is where I blew it. I know celiacs are supposed to carry their gluten-free bread, rolls and crackers with them to restaurants, but I never do. This time I wish I had. A small taste on the back of my spoon proved to be a flavorful herb infused oil consisting of a combination of pureed basil, garlic, pine nuts and oregano, which was enough to tease the palette for some culinary excitement ahead. For an appetizer, I ordered Bacon Wrapped Sea Scallops, topped with Mango Chutney. This was definitely the highlight of my gluten-free dining experience that evening. The four plump, succulent sea scallops were cooked to perfection and each surrounded by a strip of smoky bacon. In the center of the plate sat a substantial amount of mango chutney waiting to be combined with the seafood. Tiny cubes of sweet yellow mango, studded with flecks of red pepper, red onion and scallion had quite a kick, which at first caught me off guard. As I relaxed I was in heaven – there was flavor, there was depth, and there was substance to my appetizer – a celiacs’ wish come true! My gluten-free Caesar salad though was as they say, “Nothing to write home about”. A plate of whitish colored chopped romaine leaves were blanketed in a quite ordinary dressing topped with grated parmesan cheese. My husband’s Bonefish House Salad on the other hand, which also happens to be on the gluten-free menu was definitely a better choice. After allowing my fork to wander to his plate for a taste, I realized the citrus herb vinaigrette was what made this salad unique. The fresh clean taste of lemon, lime and orange, lightly tossed with crisp chopped greens, tomatoes, Kalamata olives, hearts of palm and pine nuts made this salad a winner. Since Bonefish Grill is known for their fresh fish and seafood, I decided to order from their wide selection for my entree. I chose the Atlantic Salmon topped with the lime tomato garlic sauce and it was scrumptious! It arrived hot and crisp on the outside, moist on the inside and cooked to the doneness I had requested. The choice of gluten-free side dishes was rather limited but adequate – garlic mashed potatoes, Island rice or a medley of steamed vegetables. I chose the steamed veggies – a combination of broccoli, green beans, carrots and summer squash, but they arrived a bit undercooked. They were colorful but too crunchy for my liking. So again my fork wandered to my husband’s plate for a tiny scoop of his gluten-free mashed potatoes. After swallowing the silky smooth spoonful, he offered me a taste of his Lily’s Chicken. How could I pass up his offer of a fire roasted boneless chicken breast topped with goat cheese, wilted spinach, artichoke hearts and a drizzle of lemon basil sauce. Yum!! The chicken was tender and juicy and was superb in taste as well as attractive in presentation. The only complaint we both shared was the over abundance of goat cheese, which seemed to overpower the other ingredients. Our meat-eating growing boys each enjoyed an 11ounce “center cut” sirloin steak with hearty mashed potatoes. Both arrived as ordered –medium rare and were devoured with the culinary gusto that beholds typical teenage boys. The steaks were seared to a slight char on the outside while maintaining the warm pink center that is expected from a great grilled steak. Bonefish Grill’s dessert options for those on a gluten-free diet are limited – actually limited is being kind – there is only one choice – Crème Brulee. And though I was stuffed to the gills, I had to try it. It’s all for research you know. Though creamy and sweet topped with a crunchy sugar shell as is traditional, it just did not hold up to the firm texture typical of Crème Brulee. Parts of the meal were exceptional and others quite disappointing, and my family all agreed this is a restaurant to visit whether following a gluten-free lifestyle or not. Search Bonefish Grill’s website for a location near you – www.bonefishgrill.com. |
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